The next step in our vestment sewing tips is learning to sew the chasuble. If you haven't cut the chasuble, then go here. Otherwise, we'll work on stitching the banding.
Looking for a Chasuble Pattern?
Find a chasuble pattern by clicking here.
See all of our patterns here.
Sewing the banding is one of the trickiest parts of vestment making because it's so easy to get the thing on crooked.
You can try basting it on by hand, although we've found it's just as easy to get the banding crooked by hand basting it as it is by sewing by machine. The method we have found is more efficient and saves time.
After you have pinned on your banding, hang it up and eyeball it make sure it looks straight. Using a fabric with a design will help you make certain your banding is straight.
Then start sewing the banding, pulling it tight on the fabric as you sew it as my mom has demonstrated in the photo below.
Once you have finished stitching your banding, make certain it is straight by once again hanging it up and looking at it - one of the more important vestment sewing tips. The banding should follow the line of the design.
The next of our vestment sewing tips is to show you how to put in the lining. We always use satin for our lining. If you have not already done so, press your lining fabric.
Then you will need to cut your satin lining. If your satin is sufficiently wide enough (at least 62 inches), then you can cut the chasuble out of one piece. If your satin is only 44/45 inches wide, then you will have to cut it in four pieces, as demonstrated below in our vestment sewing tips.
When you cut your lining you will need to cut an extra inch beyond the pattern to allow for seam allowances. Then pin your pieces together, both in the middle and at the shoulders.
Then stitch your pieces together. When you are finished, the lining will resemble the chasuble shell, only smaller. Because the lining is satin, you should zig-zag the edges of the lining to keep it from unraveling.
Then lay the lining on top of the chasuble, right sides together.
Then start pinning the chasuble and lining together all the way around the hem. You will need to ease the lining, as it will not be as wide as the chasuble. We do it this way so the lining will not show on the finished chasuble. Follow these vestment sewing tips and your end result will be a professional-looking garment.
Then stitch all around the edge, easing the lining when necessary. Then turn the chasuble right side out and hang it up for 2-3 days. This will reveal if the lining is sagging down and can be seen from the outside. After three days, you will be ready to hand-stitch the neck edges together, pulling in the lining when necessary.
You will need to make piping for the neck of your chasuble by doing the
following. Cut a narrow strip of vestment fabric approximately two
inches wide and long enough to cover the entire neck.
Lay the fabric down wrong side up. In the center of the fabric, lay a thin piece of roping. Fold the fabric over, covering the roping and stitch close to the roping with a zig-zag stitch. The cut the raw edges with pinking shears. Your end product should look like that in the picture below.
At the neck opening, fold both the satin wrong side together and lay the piping on top of it. The fold the vestment fabric together wrong sides together and pin it to the other side of the piping.Then hand stitch the piping in place.
Then, when you're ready, move on to the next step in our vestment sewing tips!
Learn how to make the stole and maniple by clicking here.